Syahi Begar hand block printing in India

Introduction

Syahi begar or alizarin printing is one of the most practiced techniques of hand block printing in India. It is a kind of mordant based hand block printing technique. It is known as alizarin print because of use of alizarin as an essential element in the dyeing process. It is also known as syahi (Black) & begar (Alum) work by the traditional craftsman.

In this block printing technique basically two natural colors available made from natural elements are red and black. To get red color first alum mordant is printed and then dyed with alizarin extracted from Indian madder (Rubia cordifolia) roots or Aal (Morinda Tinctoria) roots to get red color decades ago but today synthetic alizarin is used in the process due to easy availability and cost factor and black color extracted by fermenting jaggery powder with iron rust. 

Today in India few famous traditional block printing centers for alizarin printing are Bagh, Bagru and Tarapur. Bagh and Tarapur situated in Madhya Pradesh and Bagru is in Rajasthan. Few decades ago Bhairogarh, Sanganer, Bhuj, Surat and other centers were also famous for this style of hand block printing but due to market pressure of lowering the prices and limitation of colors in the process most of the centers converted into pigment printing or stopped work. 

Every area has its own geographical specialty and quite famous for it. Bagh is famous for its vibrant red and Tarapur is famous for its jet black.

Geographical differences in Alizarin Printing

Bagh print is one of the famous form of alizarin hand block printing craft of India, practiced in tribal village “Bagh” situated at the banks of Baghini River in Dhar district of Madhya Pradesh. Minerals found in the Baghini river water gave natural color more vibrancy and increase its fastness. Due to river water printing with alum gives a vibrant maroon red color while dyeing with alizarin.

Bagh Print Cotton Fabric

Due to its local specialty it got geographical indicated brand status in the year 2009. Some 400 years ago few families of "Khatri Community" migrated from Sindh province in today’s Pakistan to Manavar and then Bagh. Another theory says few families of "Khatri" community from "Bherogarh" Village near Ujjain migrated to Manavar and then Bagh in search of new market to continue the tradition of hand block printing. 

National awardee late Ismail Sulemanji Khatri made this art of hand blocks printing famous by experimenting with urban outfits and variety of designs. Before 1960 hand block printers from Bagh were known as alizarin printers because of use of alizarin in the process but today they are famous as Bagh printers due to geographical uniqueness associated with the craft. In 2009 it got geographical indication from the government of India.

Bagru print is also a famous hand block printing technique done in Bagru village of Rajasthan situated on Jaipur-Ajmer highway 30 kilometers away from Jaipur. Here also alizarin printing is done which got Geographical Indication for its local specialty. Printing is done in off white background. 

In Bagru alizarin gives a beautiful orangish red shade. It is one of the oldest hand block printing center in Rajasthan where still traditional hand block printing techniques mainly Dabu printing is practiced along with alizarin hand block print. "Chhippa Community" of Bagru associate themselves with the tradition and lineage of "Sant Namdev" tailor by profession and one of the famous saint of "Bhakti tradition" in India lived during 13th century.

                                          

                                             Bagru print on Mulberry silk 

Ummedpura-Tarapur village of Madhya Pradesh syahi begar hand block printing is also practiced. They are still using “Kath” (Vegetable black color) using jiggery powder and iron rust instead of “kashish” (Readymade vegetable black color) now commonly used to prepare black color. It is a very small village situated on the banks of “Ghambhiri” river having population of 2500 to 3000.

Tarapur is 270 kilometers away from Indore the industrial capital of Madhya Pradesh. For red color first alum as mordant is printed using tamarind seed powder paste and then dyed with alizarin. Now a day synthetic alizarin is used unlike 50 years ago roots of morinda tinctoria were used. Here alizarin gives beautiful brick red red shade.

Syahi Begar print mal cotton from Tarapur

“Chippa” community is practicing the craft of hand block printing in Tarapur since 400 years, who claims to belong to the lineage of Sant Namdev, a famous saint of “Bhakti tradition” in India. 10-15 years back some 30-40 families of “Chippa community” were involved in this craft restricted to the 3-4 families today. It’s all due to tough competition from the chemical screen printing and imitating of designs by machine printers selling it at cheaper prices than hand block printing. But they are still following the traditional methods in preparing the fabrics using semi-vegetable colors.

Other centers of Syahi Begar Printing

Apart from Bagh, Bagru and Tarapur the tradition of syahi begar printing is practiced in other centers of India too as an alternative block printing techniques. "Bela Printing" of Gujarat is one such printing technique practiced by 1 or 2 craftsman today. In Rajasthan apart from Bagru other block printing centers like Akola, Balotra, Kaladera, Pipad and other centers it is practiced in some way. 

Also tradtion of Pedana and Machilipatnam goes beyond the limit of syahi begar block printing.  

Limitations of Syahi Begar Printing 

Limitations of the traditional syahi begar printing is that only two colors red and black is possible in printing. For other color shades salt based synthetic dyes are used to get the background colors as per the demand of the customer. 

Sometimes anar ka  chilka (Pomegranate peel) is used to get the yellow color shade in the background. 

To purchase sarees or fabrics you can explore ecofab 

Eco Printing: An art of printing leaves

Introduction

History of natural dyes is time immemorial, when there were no use of chemical dyes in practice, because human being was very close to nature and dependent on natural resources only. After industrial revolution and advent of synthetic dyes use of natural dyes started falling. Reasons behind increase in the use of chemical dyes were easy to use, cheaper in price and bright colors. 

Today when world is facing a problem of scarcity of water resources, contamination of existing water resources, use of chemical dyes contributing the most. It is not only contaminating the water resources but also hazardous for human skin and health. To address the solution to the problem we need to go back to the nature. 

Tie dye with natural indigo and ecoprinted handloom kala cotton fabric

To address the current problem we need to revive the use of natural dyes and alternative techniques. 

Ecoprinting is one of such technique to embellish the clothing. Australia India Flint innovated a craft of "Eco-dyeing" and "Eco Printing" using 100% natural dye ingredients to beautify fabric. 

Ecoprinted Mulberry Silk by Cotton Saree by EcoFab

Eco-Printing: A natural art of printing

Ecoprinting is an art and science to print the natural pigment present in the various parts of the plant and at the same time convert it into wearable textile. 

Resist Ecoprint Handloom Kala Cotton Fabric 

A typical process followed from sourcing the right fabric to sizing, scouring, mordanting, choosing the parts of the plant and getting the impression of it. Initially every ecoprinter follows the predefined process and later on develops its own process, technique and style. 

Eco-printing requires skill, arduous efforts and lots of practice to get the desired result but still results is in the hands of nature. Eco printing is an art of printing leaves of various plants by wrapping it under the fabric and dye it with chosen natural dye to get the desired shade and leaf design on the fabric. It is completely a natural process to print and dye the fabric in a complete organic way with no control over the end results. 

Ecoprint Mulberry Silk Saree

Most of the dyers are now started growing desired plants and trees to make it more sustainable, eco-friendly and responsible way of dyeing fabrics.

Eco printing is getting popular among eco-conscious customers in Europe and US very rapidly and slowly growing its attention in India too. 

Stay tuned............

Balotra handblock printing: Rajasthan’s Bounty

During my Ph.D. thesis work visited Balotra some two and a half years ago. A town 450 kilometers away from Jaipur in Rajasthan well connected with railway track.

Introduction

Balotra is a town of Barmer district in Rajasthan now a days famous for its cotton and textile manufacturing industry was once famous for its unique style of hand block printing now known as balotra hand block printing. It was once an important center of hand block printing providing printed fabrics to different sections of the society. Mainly rabari, maldari and lohar community get identified with their attire having fixed pattern of designing in balotra hand block printing.

It is the second largest populated urban area of Barmer district situated on the banks of “Luni” river in which local people saw flood in the year 2002 for the last time. Since then it is dry and no water is there in the river. Once many families mainly Muslim & Hindu “Chhippa” community were involved in the complex style of hand block printing but today only one “chhippa” family of Yaseen Chhippa is involved in the craft of balotra hand block printing. Today his son Akbar is helping his father and continuing this unique craft.

Printing on patiya (Wooden slab) in Balotra

Yaseen Chhippa received national award for his commendable work.

Pattern and style

The pattern and style of Balotra hand block printing is very complex yet beautiful and unique. It showcases the beautiful nature and culture in its designs and in process it is similar to nandana and tarapur hand block printing techniques.

Like Tarapur style of hand block printing Balotra hand block printing  is also a complex technique which is a combination of direct mordant and dabu resist technique using alizarin, iron rust, kashish, indigo and mix of pomegranate peel and turmeric (haldi) dyes.

Printing again to get desired color shade

“Anokhi” beautifully documented 20 different motifs in designing used by local printers inspired from nature. “Anokhi” has published a book “Balotra the complex language of print”, describing the significance of different patterns and motifs.

Balotra style of hand block printing and process is very similar to complex craft of Nanadna and Tarapur printing. Yet both have difference of geographical specialties.

In Balotra hand block printing traditionally fadat and Ghaghara fabrics were made for local women while in Tarapur “Nandana” ghaghra and “Jawariya” lugda were made.

Today one family is left in this work mainly produces running material, stoles, dupattas and sometimes bed sheets. They seldom do sarees as it is not very easy for them to do it with such a complex style of hand block printing.

Design

Motifs used in printing are mainly floral and geometrical lines. Most of the designs are inspired from Mother Nature and traditional. The name of different designs are as follows:

1. Bahuliya

2. Bhalka

3. Boriya

4. Chameli

5. Genda

6. Gul buta

7. Gunda bel

8. Gunda

9. Jumar

10. Katar

11. Ladu

12. Libodi ki bel

13. Libodi

14. Maliyo ne fetiya

15. Methee

16. Nodana

17. Piniyari

18. Trifuli

Jawariya: Technique or Block Design

Jawariya Meaning 

Jawariya means jowar ka dana (Sorghum or cereal grass). It is one of the fiber rich, protein rich and easy to digest cereal found in India. Joar is a very good food supplement for people who are suffering from blood sugar. It does not only helps to control the blood sugar but also helps in controlling the weight. 

Jowar (Sorghum) seeds on jawariya fabric

History 

Jawariya is a very old and traditional design used in hand block printing inspired from the nature. It is used in hand block printing since many ages by traditional hand block printers specially by "Tarapur Printers". This tradition is almost 400 years old and still in practice. 

Once it was a trademark design of tribal people of Jhabua, Bagh, Neemuch, Ratlam and nearby places in Madhya Pradesh and Rajasthan in India. In tribal community red printed and pink color dyed "Jawariya lugda" (Tribal saree) is considered necessary during marriage. 

Without Jawariya design saree no marriage ceremony considered complete among tribal even today. Continuation of this tradition still encourages traditional hand block printers to continue production of Jawariya lugda. 

Jowar (Sorghum) seeds on jawariya fabric

Jawariya technique of block design

Many of us wonder that "Jawariya" is not a block printing technique but a block design used by hand block printers. This block is made in "gadh" pattern of hand block printing which means when block is printed on the fabric it creates a rich color background. For "Jawariya" design it requires a mastery in craft of hand block printing to get the better impression on the fabric using natural colors. 

Specialty of Tarapur

Though this design was printed in many of the hand block printing clusters but today "Tarapur" cluster made it famous for and thanks to "Jhariya family" specially Shri Pawan and Banwari Jhariya who still producing "jawariya" lugda for tribal community. In a light manner once Banwari  Jhariya told us "Hamne ab tak kai hazar shadiyaan karwa di hain :)" (We have produced lot of jawariya lugda which made possible thousands of marriage of tribal families). 

This tribal design touched artistic height in Tarapur with the magic hands of Jhariya brothers with intervention of designers. 

Transition from traditional to modern times

Now with increase in the demand from urban consumers jawariya design is now experimented with variety of urban outfits including Saree, T-shirts, fabric  and stoles. 

Jawariya Mal Cotton Saree

Jawariya Modal Stole

Craft Tour with Dr. Jayashree Chaudhuri

Hit the road 

A journey to explore the craft of western region of Madhya Pradesh is nothing less than expedition to search for a treasure. This time we had organized craft tour for Dr. Jayashree Chaudhuri who is an eye specialist by profession and artist by passion. This time in our craft tour list was to visit Tarapur village a hub of hand block printing.

Our journey starts from Indore on 24th January by road via Ujjain to explore the treasure of Ummedpura-Tarapur village situated on the banks of river Ghambhiri. It is a very tiny village of Neemuch district of Madhya Pradesh located at 350 kilometers from Indore. 

When you visit Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh its delicious food is one of the attraction apart from craft and culture. We enjoyed famous street side sweet corn of Saver town while heading towards Tarapur via Ujjain.

Dr. Jayashree Chaudhury enjoying sweet corn

Picturesque Spots

We reached Ummedpura-Tarapur a twin village in the evening while exploring various picturesque spots during the journey.

Pious Shivna River

Tarapur: A lost craft village 

Ummedpura-Tarapur is situated on the banks of Ghambhiri river once known for 400 years old Nandana hand block printing. Nandana is the traditional hand block printing technique only practiced in this village by 100 families of "Chhippa Community" belongs to the lineage of "Sant Namdev" who as a devotee saint of 12th century tailor by profession. Some 10 years ago 98 families involved in this rare craft of hand block printing stopped production due to increase in cost and lack of marketing. 

Today only 2 families left in the production of hand block printing and 4 years ago they also left the production of Nandana as they were not getting orders for it. Today both the families are involved in Alizarin hand block printing a kind of direct & mordant based technique, Dabu hand block printing a kind of resist technique and Tarapur hand block printing which is a combination of alizarin and dabu hand block printing.

EcoFab is working with one of the family led by Shri Banwari & Pawan Jhariya belongs to the 6th generation of chhippa community involved in hand block printing and dyeing. While working with Jhariya brothers (Banwari & Pawan Jhariya) we have again revived the "Nandana" hand block printing. 

Visit to Tarapur

On the first day we reached Tarapur in the evening the journey we started from Indore. There are 3 options available with visitors to stay:

1. Home stay: On nominal payment basis one can stay at factory with minimal facilities available in a village environment. 

2. Stay at Jawad: A hotel with decent facilities situated in Jawad a small town 5 kilometers away from Tarapur. 

3. Stay at Neemuch: There are various hotels available in Neemuch a district place 30 kilometers away from Tarapur, ranging from Cheap, Budget and Comfort hotels.

Jayashree didi preferred home stay to feel the rural life and to gain the maximum information about the craft.

Dr. Jayashree with Master craftsman Banwari Jhariya

Stay, learn & co-create

Craft tour is not all about fun but also to stay with craftsman to see their work, learn about their tradition and if you are an artist its an opportunity to co-create.

Being a passionate artist herself Dr. Jayashree grab this opportunity to design the sarees as per her choice and imagination. Due to her artistic mind and knowledge about the craft master craftsman Pawan Jhariya asked me "दीदी वाकई डॉक्टर हैं या डिज़ाइनर हैं!" (Is she actually a doctor or designer!). On this comment Dr. Jayashree laughed a lot and said its the best compliment I have ever got and an honor when it comes from a born craftsman himself. 

We stayed in Tarapur for 3 days and it was full of fun, learning about different hand block printing techniques practiced by Jhariya brothers and co-creation. Dr. Jayashree also documented the story of Nandana hand block printing. She also visited "Sukhanand" a serene and pious place 12 kilometers away from Tarapur.

On 3rd day we decided to leave Tarapur though Dr. Jayashree wanted to stay for few more days but her pre-scheduled work forced her to leave for Indore and then West Bengal where she lives and practice as an eye surgeon.

Last but not the least, on the last day of our stay we had one of the yummiest local rural food known as "Khanto Khichado" (Sour fried buttermilk & sweet khichadi). Sweet khichadi is made from jaggery and wheat. It was one of the best treat one can have on 26th January the day when India got its constitution.

Khanto Khichado

If you are interested in exploring craft tour organized by EcoFab can contact us via email ecofabricindia@gmail.com or can whatsapp or call at 9993091955