Alizarin, Madder, Parijaat, Natural Dye, Bagh Print, Ajrakh, Puru Print, Hand block print, Dabu

Thursday, 3 October 2019

Bagh & Bagru Print: Similar process but different traditions

Traditional Process of Alizarin Printing 

1. Purchase of kora/unbleached fabric

2. Scouring (Cleaning of fabrics locally known as “HariTarana” and soak for 24 hours)

3. Yellow dying in Harda(fruit of myrobalan plant) solutionto make fabric off-white. (Prepare fabric for printing locally called “PeelaKarna” or HardaRangai)

4. Printing (Block printed with alum and iron rust mixed with tamarind seed powder paste which is locally called “Chapai”)

5. Drying of printed fabric locally called “Sukhai

6. Washing to remove the excess color locally called “Khulai” or "Vichalai"

7. Dyeing or fixing of colors after washing, locally known as “GhanRangai”. In this process printed fabric is dyed with synthetic alizarin to get red color in place of alum printing and black color get fixed. Previously madder roots or al (morinda tinctoria) roots were used in dyeing. 

8. Bleaching of fabric locally known as "Tapai". Previously it was done near river by pouring water on the fabric under sunlight but now a days ready made bleaching powder is used to remove the stains on the dyed fabric.

9. Fabric ready. If required it is again dyed with different synthetic dyes or natural dyes to get different color backgrounds. 

 Difference between Bagh & Bagru Print

Whenever we think of red and black block printing people think about either Bagh or Bagru print but unable to differentiate in between the two. Most of the times craft lovers even consider both are same but in actual both are different and having its own specialty, tradition and beauty. It is very important to keep the differentiation in mind to keep the sanctity of craft tradition.

Apart from similar red and black printing there are few similarities and many simple and technical differences in craft approach, community and motif. Before sharing differences there are few similarities in between two craft are:

Similarities in Bagh & Bagru Print

Printing style
Both are alizarin block printing technique (Combination of red & black printing).
Both the techniques protected under Geographical Indication act.
Almost similar process of washing, printing and dyeing.

These are the similarities in between Bagh and Bagru print then what are differences?

Differences in between Bagh print and Bagru print

Points of difference
Bagh print
Bagru print
Traditional Motif/Pattern
Buta and jaal pattern
Very small buti pattern
Madhya Pradesh
Printing colors (Traditional)
Red, black, Further developed 2 more colors shades by printing black on white background i.e. Ochre & Golden yellow
Red & black. Now a days pigment colors also used in printing.
Generally bleached white background after printing and dyeing. Sometimes over dye with synthetic dyes.
Off white or cream background.
Muslim Khatri
Hindu Namdev Chippa
All the washing done in flowing river
Washing done in pond
Red color
Vibrant red color comes out with alizarin due to rich copper content in the river.
Brick red shade is the identity of Bagru.

Present Scenario

Today there is no difference of motif and pattern left due to continuous interaction between the two places. Same block makers are making wooden blocks for the printers of both places. But both the traditions are protected by geographical indication need to be identified and marketed in their respective names. 

Whatever printed in Bagh following the traditional process known as Bagh print and whatever printed in Bagru following the traditional process known as Bagru print. 

Peela karna (Myrobalan dyeing process) in Bagh Village

Black Kachuka (Iron rust+jaggery+tamarind seed paste)

Red Kachuka (Alum+Tamarind seed powder paste)

Vichalai process in Bagh (Post printing washing) 

 Usman Khati (Bagh Print)

Traditional Bagh Print Saree

 Traditional Small Buti  (Bagru Print)

A printer in Bagru 

Govindji Chippa (In left) Showing Traditonal Bagru Print Saree

Bagru Print Saree

Bagh & Bagru Print: Similar process but different traditions

Traditional  Process of Alizarin Printing  1. Purchase of kora/unbleached fabric 2.  Scouring (Cleaning of fabrics locally known ...