Alizarin, Madder, Parijaat, Natural Dye, Bagh Print, Ajrakh, Puru Print, Hand block print, Dabu

Showing posts with label Tarapur. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tarapur. Show all posts

Sunday 22 July 2018

Tarapur Print: A Craft Jewel of Madhya Pradesh

Background 

Ummedpura-Tarapur twin villages situated on the banks of "Maa" Gambhiri river in Neemuch district of Madhya Pradesh. Twin villages demarcated by a bridge made on the river were famous for its 400 years or even older than this craft of Nandana hand block printing practiced in these two villages only by traditional "Hindu Chippa" community belongs to the Sant Namdev tradition supported by "Muslim Nilger" community famous for indigo dyeing. 

Limited to tribal market, laborious process, limited design and color combination,  and increasing cost of nandana print was the reason behind decrease in demand too. It was clearly an indication for them to do something new or stop the work. Many families stopped their traditional work of nandana 2 decades ago and started other business. Few families still continued their family tradition with concern for future of their tradition. While they were in dilemma to continue the craft or not few started searching for new markets and possibilities to innovate the existing techniques. In this time less than 10 families were left in this business who were practicing nandana hand block printing and sometimes other techniques of hand block printing. 



Tarapur print mal cotton stole



In this struggle period some 3 decades ago few exporters contacted hand block printer family of Late Shri Purushottamji Jhariya for indigo and different design combination in red and indigo color. Though they were doing it since ages but not commercially marketed well and it is how a new technique of block printing evolved.

In this technique they started concentrating on use of alizarin print (red and black) combining with indigo Indigo dabu work to get a red. black and indigo blue color combination with variety of block designs. 

They started calling this technique as "Alizer-Indigo" technique to differentiate it.



Tarapur print modal by modal Saree

Marketing as Tarapur print

When Pushyamitra co-founder of EcoFab started working with the family of Late Shri Purushottamji Jhariya in Tarapur some 3 years ago while doing his thesis started documenting the various techniques practiced by the 2 families left in this place comes to know about 4 techniques practiced by them were:


1. Alizarin print (Red & black) 

2. Dabu print (Resist techniques and mainly dyed with indigo)

3. Alizer Indigo print (Combination of Alizarin red and black & Dabu indigo)

4. Nandana print (Traditional signature craft of hand block printing)


Tarapur as a craft village and home to a varieties of craft of hand block printing was facing an identity crisis. Bagh and Bagru villages were already famous for its unique alizarin hand block printing depicting their geographical identity. Then it was decided by Pushyamitra with Jhariya borthers (Pawan Jhariya & Banwari Jhariya) to market this unique combination of alizarin print and dabu print as "Tarapur Print" in the market.

It is how name of Tarapur print came into existence. Today Tarapur print evolved as an important hand block printing technique and quite famous among craft lovers. 



 Tarapur print fine cotton Saree

 Tarapur print fine cotton Saree

Process

Process of Tarapur print is time consuming and laborious too as it is a combination of two different hand block printing known as Alizarin printing and Dabu printing. 

Fabric is first treated with a solution of soda ash, castor oil and sea salt now a days a ready combination known as TRO (turkey red oil) is available in the market is used. After this pre washing treatment fabric is dyed with harda (myrabalan) solution then it is ready for printing with alum mordant and paste made of iron rust and jaggery solution mixed with tamarind seed powder. 

Shri Pawan Jhariya doing washing process after alizarin printing


After printing it is kept for 2-3 days then washed in flowing river or in tank then it is dyed with alizarin using bhatti (boiling) process. After bhatti process fabric again printed with resist paste made from clay, gum and lime to hide red portion and where we need white design in base now fabric is dyed with indigo an kept for a day. After washing and post mordant fabric is ready to market.



Shri Banwari Jhariya seeing his printed clothes in Tarapur Print


Saturday 19 May 2018

Tribal Tale - Jawariya Lugda A Kind of Tribal Saree

About Jawariya Lugda

Jawariya means jowar ka dana (Sorghum or cereal grass) is a very old and traditional design used in hand block printing inspired from the nature. Once it was a trademark design of tribal people of Jhabua, Bagh, Neemuch, Ratlam and neaby places in Madhya Pradesh. In tribal Jawariya lugda (used as a Saree) is considered necessary during marriage.
Without Jawariya lugda a kind of tribal saree no marriage ceremony considered completed among tribal even today. A thick cotton fabric like poplin cotton of 58 inches width and 2.6 meter in length is used by tribal bride as a short saree. Fabric is hand block printed with alum using "Jawariya" design then dyed with alizarin to get complete red color and then dyed with  loose pink color. 

Traditional Red Jawariya Lugda
This Jawariya lugda is used by tribal bride as a Saree which is a must during marriage ceremony by wrapping it around the body. 

For urban people it is like a thick cotton material to make a kurta. EcoFab has done some changes in the color combination in this traditional "Jawariya" to make it a wearable art. A combination of red with iron black (Black color made from iron rust and jaggery powder), complete black combination.








Hand Block Printing Centers 

Traditionally "Jawariya" design was used by craftsman of various hand block printing centers in India including Madhya Pradesh and Rajasthan.  In Madhya Pradesh it was printed in Bagh village and Tarapur village to fulfill the demand of tribal but today this design is equally liked and appreciated by urban customers. This design and tradition of printing lugda is continued by Jhariya family from Tarapur village in Madhya Pradesh. 


For more details please check 

website: www.ecofab.in

Instagram account: www.instagram.com/ecofabbharat






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