Alizarin, Madder, Parijaat, Natural Dye, Bagh Print, Ajrakh, Puru Print, Hand block print, Dabu

Tuesday 7 February 2017

Hand Block Printing Techniques


Every craft has its own story to tell. In this blog post we are classifying the different traditional hand block printing techniques with focus on mordant based block printing.

One of the most practiced hand block printing technique is mordant based printing which is also known as alizarin printing because of use of alizarin in the process. 



Techniques of hand block printing 



We can classify traditional hand block printing techniques into 3 categories which are:

1. Mordant printing or Syahi Begar printing (Bagh, Bagru, Macchalipattanam, Pedana, Tarapur)

2. Resist printing mainly Dabu (Akola, Bagru, Kaladera, Tarapur, Udaipur)

3. Combination of mordant & Resist Printing (Ajrakh, Balotra, Jahota, Nandana, Pharad, Puru & Taarapur print)



In Rajasthan by combining alizarin and resist printing techniques a new technique was developed mainly in Bagru and Balotara centers. In Bagru it is known as "Jahota" (Mixing of two). Due to regional beauty this technique practiced in Balotara known as Balotara printing.

In Tarapur (Madhya Pradesh) this technique has been developed by Chippa community known as Tarapur print due to its regional specialty and use of design patterns. 


In this blog post we are discussing about mordant printing. Rest of the printing techniques will be discussed in coming blog posts.

Mordant Printing

The widely used mordant hand block printing technique is also known as "Syahi-Begar" or Alizarin printing. Alizarin is a natural chemical which is extracted from the roots of Madder(Rubia cordifolia) & bark of Al root (Morinda tnctoria) used to get natural red color where alum has been printed and to fix the Black (Jaggery powder & iron rust printed on myrobalan dyed fabric) color. Today natural alizarin is replaced by synthetic alizarin.

The process of mordant based block printing is as follow:









Pre-Printing


Scouring of Fabric 
(Purchase of kora/raw fabric) 

Cleaning 
(Locally known as “HariTarana” and soak for 24 hours in a solution of castor oil, soda ash and goat dung)

Yellow dying/Pre mordanting 
(Yellow dyeing with Harda(fruit of myrobalan plant) solution to make fabric off-white. (Prepare fabric for printing locally called “PeelaKarna” or HardaRangai).


Printing Process


Color/Mordant preparation 
(Alum water mix with tamarind seed powder to get red, Iron rust & jaggery fermented solution mix with tamarind seed powder to get black)

Printing 
(Printing locally called “Chapai” is done with wooden block with mordant)

 Drying 
(Drying of printed fabric locally called “Sukhai”. It is kept in cool and dry place for 4 to 5 days so that printed color get absorbed by fabric threads)

Washing
 (To remove the excess color locally called “Khulai”)


Dyeing process


              Dyeing or fixing of colors 
(Dyeing the fabric with synthetic alizarin or madder roots or al roots with woodfordia fructicosa flowers locally known as dhawdi phool. The process of dyeing is locally known as “GhanRangai”)

                Bleaching
(Previously natural bleaching process done near river by keeping fabric on sand under sunlight and sprinkle water on it for a whole day to remove the stains. Now a days ready made bleach powder is used in the process)

Fabric is ready for use/sale


(Source: Based on primary research)




It is also known as mordant printing because of use of mordants such as iron rust and fitkari (Alum) in the process. These 2 mordants mixed with tamarind powder paste before printing. In some places alum is mixed with gum Arabica (Babool gond) solution before printing. Before printing fabric is first dyed with myrobalan solution. Natural pigment known as tannin is present in myrobalan helps to get dark shade of black color after reacting with iron rust and jaggery paste printed on the fabric. 




In Indian traditional hand block printing industry natural Alizarin was extracted from roots of Al tree (Morinda Tinctoria) commonly known as "Al Tree". Alizarin was the first natural pigment which was made synthetically in the lab in the year 1868. In India it got popularized some 50 years ago since then not a single hand block printing cluster using natural Al roots to get the red color. 




Even present generation of hand block printers not only forgot the use of Al roots but also the process. Today al roots is used by tribes of Kotpad village in Koraput district of Orissa to dye the threads before weaving sarees.



Easy to use and cost effectiveness of synthetic alizarin made it popular among the hand block printers community in India so it has replaced the use of Al roots to get red color. 




In this mordant printing now known as syahi begar printing only two colors red and natural black can be printed. 

1. Bagh print (Dhar, Madhyapradesh)
2. Bagru print (Bagru, Rajasthan)
3. Bherogarh print (Ujjain, Madhyapradesh): Now a hub of batik printing.
4. Kukshi (Dhar, Madhyapradesh)  
5. Bela printing (Kutchh, Gujarat)
6. Tarapur (Javad, Madhyapradesh)
7. Sanganer (SanganerRajasthan). Now a hub for pigment printing
8. Machilipattanam (Andhra Pradesh)
9. Pedana (Andhra Pradesh)



In Machilipattanam and Pedana this technique further developed and achieved the acme of traditional mordant based hand block printing. In these techniques now more than 2 colors can be printed by using 4 to 5 blocks. 



In many other places of Rajasthan and Gujarat Alizarin printing is also practiced apart from Dabu and Ajrakh printing.


Printing (рдардк्рдкा рдЫрдкाрдИ )



Washing (рдзुрд▓ाрдИ)

Myrobalan dyeing (рдкीрд▓ा рдХрд░рдиा)

рдардк्рдкा рдЫрдкाрдИ рдХे рдк्рд░рдХाрд░ 


рд╣рд╕्рдд рдЫрдкाрдИ рдпा рдардк्рдкा рдЫрдкाрдИ рдХे рдк्рд░ाрдХृрддिрдХ рд░ंрдЧों рдХा рдЙрдкрдпोрдЧ рдХрд░рдХे рдХрдкреЬो рдкрд░ рдЫрдкाрдИ рдХрд░рдиे рдХे рдоुрдЦ्рдпрддः рддीрди рдк्рд░рдХाрд░ рд╣ैं:




1. рд╕ीрдзे рдЫрдкाрдИ (рд╕्рдпाрд╣ी рдмेрдЧрд░ рдк्рд░िंрдЯिंрдЧ)
реи. рдмाрдзा рдЫрдкाрдИ (рджाрдмू, рдЕрдЬрд░рдЦ)
рей. рдЙрдкрд░ोрдХ्рдд рджोрдиों рдЫрдкाрдИ рдХा рд╕ंрдЧрдо




рдоोрд░рдбेंрдЯ рдЫрдкाрдИ рдФрд░ рдмाрдзा рдЫрдкाрдИ рдХी рддрдХрдиीрдХो рдХो рдоिрд▓ाрдХрд░ рдирдпी рддрдХрдиीрдХ рдХрдИ рдкрд░ंрдкрд░ाрдЧрдд рдардк्рдкा рдЫрдкाрдИ рдХेрди्рдж्рд░ों рдоें рд╡िрдХрд╕िрдд рд╣ुрдИ| рд░ाрдЬрд╕्рдеाрди рдоें рдпрд╣ рдмрдЧрд░ू рдФрд░ рдмाрд▓ोрддрд░ा рдоें рдоुрдЦ्рдп рд░ूрдк рд╕े рдЙрдкрдпोрдЧ рдХी рдЬाрддी рд╣ैं| рдмрдЧрд░ू рдоें рдпрд╣ рддрдХрдиीрдХ рдЬрд╣ोрддा (рджो рдХा рдоिрд╢्рд░рдг) рдХрд╣рд▓ाрддी рд╣ैं рдФрд░ рдмाрд▓ोрддрд░ा рдоें рдпрд╣ рдЕрдкрдиी рд╕्рдеाрдиीрдп рд╕ौрджрд░्рдп рдХे рдХाрд░рдг рдмाрд▓ोрддрд░ा рдХрд╣рд▓ाрддी рд╣ैं| , рдордз्рдпрдк्рд░рджेрд╢ рдХे рддाрд░ाрдкुрд░, рдоें рдпрд╣ рддрдХрдиीрдХ рдЫिрдк्рдкा рд╕рдоाрдЬ рдж्рд╡ाрд░ा рд╡िрдХрд╕िрдд рдХी рдЧрдИ рдЬिрд╕े рдЗрд╕рдХे рд╕्рдеाрдиीрдп рд╡िрд╢ेрд╖рддा рдХे рдХाрд░рдг рддाрд░ाрдкुрд░ рдк्рд░िंрдЯ рдХे рдиाрдо рд╕े рдЬाрдиा рдЬाрддा рд╣ैं| 



рдЗрд╕ рдм्рд▓ॉрдЧ рдкोрд╕्рдЯ рдоें рд╣рдо рдХेрд╡рд▓ рдоोрд░рдбेंрдЯ рдпा рд╕ीрдзी рдЫрдкाрдИ рдХी рдмाрдд рдХрд░ेंрдЧे| рдмाрдХी рдХी рдЫрдкाрдИ рддрдХрдиीрдХो рдХो рд╣рдо рджुрд╕рд░े рдм्рд▓ॉрдЧ рдкोрд╕्рдЯ рдоें рд▓िрдЦेंрдЧे|




рд╕ीрдзी рдЫрдкाрдИ


рд╕ीрдзे рдЫрдкाрдИ рдХी рд╕рдмрд╕े рдк्рд░рдЪрд▓िрдд рддрдХрдиीрдХ рдХो рдЕрд▓िреЫрд░िрди рдк्рд░िंрдЯिंрдЧ рдХे рдиाрдо рд╕े рднी рдЬाрдиा рдЬाрддा рд╣ैं| рдЕрд▓िреЫрд░िрди рдоुрдЦ्рдпрддः рдоंрдЬिрд╖्рда (рд░ुрдмिрдпा рдХोрд░्рджिрдлोрд▓िрдпा) рдХी рдЬреЬ рд╕े рдиिрдХрд▓рдиे рд╡ाрд▓ा рд▓ाрд▓ рд░ंрдЧ рдХा рдк्рд░ाрдХृрддिрдХ рдХेрдоिрдХрд▓ рд╣ैं| рднाрд░рдд рдоें рдоुрдЦ्рдпрддः рдЖрд▓ (рдоोрд░िंрдбा рдЯिंрдХрддोрд░िрдпा ) рдХी рдЬреЬ рдФрд░ рдХुрдЫ рдХुрдЫ рд╕्рдеाрдиों рдкрд░ рдоंрдЬिрд╖्рда рдХी рдЬреЬ рдХा рдЙрдкрдпोрдЧ рдк्рд░ाрдХृрддिрдХ рдЕрд▓िреЫрд░िрди рдХो рдк्рд░ाрдк्рдд рдХрд░рдиे рдХे рд▓िрдП рдХिрдпा рдЬाрддा рдеा| рдЬिрд╕рдХा рдЙрдкрдпोрдЧ рдЫрдкाрдИ рдоें рдЙрдкрдпुрдХ्рдд рд╣ोрдиे рд╡ाрд▓े рджो рдк्рд░ाрдХृрддिрдХ рд░ंрдЧों рдлिрдЯрдХрд░ी рдХी рдЫрдкाрдИ рдкрд░ рд▓ाрд▓ рдФрд░ рдХाрд▓े (рдЧुреЬ рдФрд░ рд▓ोрд╣े рдХी рдЬंрдЧ рдПрд╡ं рд╣рд░рдб) рд░ंрдЧ рдХो рдкрдХ्рдХा рдХрд░рдиे рдоें рдорд╣рдд्рд╡рдкूрд░्рдг рдпोрдЧрджाрди рджेрддा рд╣ै



рдпрд╣ рдоोрд░рдбेंрдЯ рдЫрдкाрдИ рднी рдХрд╣рд▓ाрддी рд╣ैं| рдоोрд░рдбेंрдЯ рдпाрдиी рдХी рд░ंрдЧाрдИ рдХрд░рдиे рдХे рдкрд╣рд▓े рдХिрд╕ी рджुрд╕рд░े рдкрджाрд░्рде рд╕े рдЖрдзाрд░ рддैрдп्рдпाрд░ рдХрд░рдиा| рдЗрд╕ рддрд░рд╣ рдХी рдЫрдкाрдИ рдоें рд▓ोрд╣े рдХी рдЬंрдЧ рдФрд░ рдлिрдЯрдХрд░ी рдХा рдк्рд░рдпोрдЧ рдХिрдпा рдЬाрддा рд╣ैं| рдЗрди рджोрдиो рдоोрд░рдбेंрдЯ рдХो рдЫрдкाрдИ рд╕े рдкрд╣рд▓े рдЗрдорд▓ी рдХे рдШोрд▓ рдоें рдоिрд▓ाрдпा рдЬाрддा рд╣ैं| рдХुрдЫ рд╕्рдеाрдиों рдкрд░ рдмрдмूрд▓ рдХे рдЧोंрдж рд╕े рдмрдиे рдШोрд▓ рдоें рдоिрд▓рдХрд░ рднी рдЫрдкाрдИ рдХी рдЬाрддी рд╣ैं| рдЫрдкाрдИ рд╕े рдкрд╣рд▓े рдХрдкреЬे рдХो рд╣рд░рдб

рдХे рдШोрд▓ рд╕े рд░ंрдЧाрдИ рдХрд░ рдЫрдкाрдИ рдХे рд▓िрдП рддैрдпाрд░ рдХिрдпा рдЬाрддा рд╣ैं| рд╣рд░рдб рдоें рдЯेрдиिрди рдиाрдордХ рдиेрдЪुрд░рд▓ рдкिрдЧрдоेंрдЯ рд╣ोрддा рд╣ैं рдЬो рд▓ोрд╣े рдХी рдЬंрдЧ рдФрд░ рдЧुрдб рд╕े рдмрдиे рдШोрд▓ рдХी рдЫрдкाрдИ рдХे рд╕рдордп рдк्рд░рддिрдХ्рд░िрдпा рдХрд░рдХे рдЧрд╣рд░ा рдХाрд▓ा рд░ंрдЧ рджेрддा рд╣ैं| 

рдкрд╣рд▓ी рдмाрд░ резреоремрео рдоें рдЕрд▓िреЫрд░िрди рдХो рдХृрдд्рд░िрдо рд░ूрдк рд╕े рд▓ैрдм рдоें рддैрдпाрд░ рдХिрдпा рдЧрдпा рдЬिрд╕рдХे рдмाрдж рд╕े рдк्рд░ाрдХृрддिрдХ рдЕрд▓िреЫрд░िрди рдХी рдоांрдЧ рдоें рдХрдоी рдЪрд▓ी рдЖрддी рдЧрдпी| рднाрд░рдд рдоें рдкिрдЫрд▓े релреж рд╕ाрд▓ो рд╕े рдХृрдд्рд░िрдо рдЕрд▓िреЫрд░िрди рдХा рдЙрдкрдпोрдЧ рдардк्рдкा рдЫрдкाрдИ рдоें рдзреЬрд▓्рд▓े рд╕े рд╢ुрд░ू рд╣ो рдЧрдпा рд╣ैं рдЬिрд╕рдХे рдХाрд░рдг рдкрд░ंрдкрд░ाрдЧрдд рдм्рд▓ाрдХ рдк्рд░िंрдЯрд░्рд╕ рдЖрд▓ рдХी рдЬреЬ рд╕े рдк्рд░ाрдХृрддिрдХ рдЕрд▓िреЫрд░िрди рдХे рдЙрдкрдпोрдЧ рдХी рд╡िрдзि рднूрд▓ рдЧрдП рд╣ैं рдХ्рдпूंрдХि рдЙрд╕рдХी рдк्рд░рдХ्рд░िрдпा рди рдХेрд╡рд▓ рдЬрдЯिрд▓ рд╣ैं рдмрд▓्рдХि рдорд╣ँрдЧी рднी рд╣ैं| рдПрдХोрдлेрдм рдХी рдЯीрдо рдиे рдЧрд╣рди рдЕрдз्рдпрдпрди рдХे рдмाрдж рдкрддा рдХिрдпा рдХी рдЖрд▓ рдХी рдЬреЬ рдХा рдЙрдкрдпोрдЧ рдЖрдЬ рдХेрд╡рд▓ рдЙреЬीрд╕ा рдХे рдХोрдЯрдкреЬ рдЗрд▓ाрдХे рдХे рдЖрджिрд╡ाрд╕ी рд╣рдердХрд░рдШा рд╕ाреЬिрдпो рдоें рдмрдиाрдпीं рдЧрдпी рдбिрдЬाрдИрди рдХो рд░ंрдЧрдиे рдоें рдХрд░рддे рд╣ैं|



рднाрд░рдд рдоें рдЖрдЬ рдкрд░ंрдкрд░ाрдЧрдд рд╕ीрдзी рдардк्рдкा рдЫрдкाрдИ рдоें рдХेрд╡рд▓ рдк्рд░ाрдХृрддिрдХ рдХाрд▓े рд░ंрдЧ рдХा рд╣ी рдЙрдкрдпोрдЧ рд╣ो рд░рд╣ा рд╣ैं| рд▓ाрд▓ рд░ंрдЧ рдХी рдбिрдЬाрдИрди рдХो рдк्рд░ाрдк्рдд рдХрд░рдиे рдХे рд▓िрдП рдХृрдд्рд░िрдо рдЕрд▓िреЫрд░िрди рдХा рдЙрдкрдпोрдЧ рдХिрдпा рдЬाрдиे рд▓рдЧा рд╣ैं|



рднाрд░рдд рдоें рдЫिрдк्рдкा рдпा рдЦрдд्рд░ी рд╕рдоाрдЬ рдж्рд╡ाрд░ा рдЕрд▓िреЫрд░िрди рдк्рд░िंрдЯ рддрдХрдиीрдХ рдХा рдЙрдкрдпोрдЧ рдХрд░рдиे рд╡ाрд▓े рдоुрдЦ्рдп рд╕्рдеाрди рдеे рдФрд░ рдЬрд╣ाँ рдЖрдЬ рднी рдХिрд╕ी рди рдХिрд╕ी рд░ूрдк рдоें рдпрд╣ рддрдХрдиीрдХ рдЬीрд╡िрдд рд╣ैं:




рез. рдмाрдШ рдк्рд░िंрдЯ (рдзाрд░, рдордз्рдпрдк्рд░рджेрд╢)
реи. рдмрдЧрд░ू рдк्рд░िंрдЯ (рдмрдЧрд░ू, рд░ाрдЬрд╕्рдеाрди)
рей. рднेрд░ोрдЧреЭ (рдЙрдЬ्рдЬैрди, рдордз्рдпрдк्рд░рджेрд╢) рдЕрдм рдпрд╣ рдмрдЯिрдХ рдк्рд░िंрдЯिंрдЧ рдХे рд▓िрдП рдЬाрдиा рдЬाрддा рд╣ैं|
рек. рдХुрдХ्рд╖ी (рдзाрд░, рдордз्рдпрдк्рд░рджेрд╢)
рел. рд╕ांрдЧाрдиेрд░ (рд╕ांрдЧाрдиेрд░, рд░ाрдЬрд╕्рдеाрди) рдЕрдм рдкिрдЧрдоेंрдЯ рдк्рд░िंрдЯिंрдЧ рдХा рдЧреЭ рд╣ैं|
рем. рдмेрд▓ा рдк्рд░िंрдЯिंрдЧ (рдХрдЪ्рдЫ, рдЧुрдЬрд░ाрдд)
рен. рддाрд░ाрдкुрд░ (рдЬाрд╡рдж, рдордз्рдпрдк्рд░рджेрд╢)
рео. рдордЫрд▓ीрдкрдд्рддрдирдо (рдЖंрдз्рд░ рдк्рд░рджेрд╢)
реп. рдкेрдбाрдиा (рдЖंрдз्рд░ рдк्рд░рджेрд╢)

рдордЫрд▓ीрдкрдд्рддрдирдо рдПрд╡ं рдкेрдбाрдиा рдоें рдпрд╣ рддрдХрдиीрдХ рдФрд░ рднी рдЕрдзिрдХ рд░ूрдк рд╕े рд╡िрдХрд╕िрдд рд╣ोрдХрд░ рдЕрдкрдиे рдЪрд░рдо рдкрд░ рдкрд╣ुрдЪ рдЧрдпी рд╣ैं рдЬिрд╕рдоे рек рд╕े рел рдм्рд▓ाрдХ рдХा рдЙрдкрдпोрдЧ рдХрд░рдХे реи рд╕े рдЕрдзिрдХ рд░ंрдЧों рдХा рд╕рдоाрдпोрдЬрди рд╕ीрдзी рдпा рдоोрд░рдбेंрдЯ рдЫрдкाрдИ рдХे рдж्рд╡ाрд░ा рдХिрдпा рдЬा рд╕рдХрддा рд╣ैं|

рд░ाрдЬрд╕्рдеाрди рдФрд░ рдЧुрдЬрд░ाрдд рдХे рдХрдИ рд╕्рдеाрдиों рдоें рдоुрдЦ्рдпрддः рджाрдмू рдФрд░ рдЕрдЬрд░рдЦ рдХे рдЖрд▓ाрд╡ा рд╕्рдпाрд╣ी рдмेрдЧрд░ рдк्рд░िंрдЯिंрдЧ рдХा рднी рдЙрдкрдпोрдЧ рдХिрдпा рдЬाрддा рд╣ैं|




Wednesday 1 February 2017

History of Hand block Printing in India

History


Craft of hand block printing is a very old art used to print clothes using vegetable colors  with the help of wooden or metal blocks. A statue wearing the hand block printed scarf found on the site of "Mohe-Jo-Daro" traces the history of craft of hand block printing done in that place some 4000 years ago. In Indian sub-continent its origin or birth place is considered to be the Sindh province of today's Pakistan. ""Khatri"or "Chhippa"community mainly involved in the craft of hand block printing in this region since many centuries and later migrated to Gujarat and other parts of India to promote their craft and also in search of new regions to expand their business. In Rajasthan and some parts of Madhya Pradesh "Chippa" Community traces their roots with the "Sant Namdev" a devotional saint of 13th century and tailor by profession. This "Chippa" community consider themselves a descendant of Saint Namdev.

Present Scenario


Even today Bagh village and Tarapur villages in Madhya Pradesh, Kutch region of Gujarat, various towns and villages in Rajasthan,  in India are the major centers where craft of traditional hand block printing is practiced using the the traditional process it was practiced 400 to 1000 years ago with some minor changes. Traditionally vegetable colors were used in printing and dyeing of fabrics. 


Today there are many urban and rural centers of hand block printing chemical colors, direct colors and pigments used for printing and chemical dyes introduced. But the use of all these chemical colors not only polluting the sources of clean water but also not good for skin. Few researches suggested that most of the chemical dyes are unsafe for our skin and gave birth to many skin related diseases. Still there are few centers left in India where traditional process and vegetable colors used in printing and dyeing. 

Today EcoFab is promoting traditional craft of hand block printing by emphasizing more on using natural/herbal dyes and eco-friendly colors in the process.

Traditionally varieties of cotton and silk fabrics used in hand block printing industry but other natural fiber based fabrics like modal and viscose fabrics are also used in printing. 


To know more about us explore the links below:


Website: www.ecofab.in

Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/EcoFabricIndia

Lodhra : A Forgotten Ancient Plant Mordant - 01

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