Introduction
Syahi begar or alizarin printing is one of the most practiced techniques
of hand block printing in India. It is a kind of mordant based hand
block printing technique. It is known as alizarin print because of use of
alizarin as an essential element in the dyeing process. It is also known as syahi (Black) & begar (Alum) work by the traditional craftsman.
In this block printing
technique basically two natural colors available made from natural elements
are red and black. To get red color first alum mordant is printed and
then dyed with alizarin extracted from Indian madder (Rubia cordifolia) roots or Aal (Morinda Tinctoria) roots to get red color decades ago but today
synthetic alizarin is used in the process due to easy availability and cost
factor and black color extracted by fermenting jaggery powder with iron
rust.
Today in India few famous traditional block printing centers for alizarin printing are Bagh, Bagru and Tarapur. Bagh and Tarapur situated in Madhya Pradesh and Bagru is in Rajasthan. Few decades ago Bhairogarh, Sanganer, Bhuj, Surat and other centers were also famous for this style of hand block printing but due to market pressure of lowering the prices and limitation of colors in the process most of the centers converted into pigment printing or stopped work.
Every area has its own geographical specialty and quite famous for it. Bagh is famous for its vibrant red and Tarapur is famous for its jet black.
Geographical differences in Alizarin Printing
Bagh print is one of the famous form of alizarin hand block printing craft of India, practiced in tribal village “Bagh” situated
at the banks of Baghini River in Dhar district of Madhya
Pradesh. Minerals found in the Baghini river water gave
natural color more vibrancy and increase its fastness. Due to river water printing with alum gives a vibrant maroon red color while dyeing with alizarin.
Bagh Print Cotton Fabric
Due to its local
specialty it got geographical indicated brand status in the year 2009. Some 400
years ago few families of "Khatri Community" migrated
from Sindh province in today’s Pakistan to Manavar and then Bagh. Another
theory says few families of "Khatri" community from
"Bherogarh" Village near Ujjain migrated to Manavar and then Bagh in
search of new market to continue the tradition of hand block printing.
National awardee late Ismail Sulemanji Khatri made this art of hand blocks
printing famous by experimenting with urban outfits and variety of designs.
Before 1960 hand block printers from Bagh were known as alizarin printers
because of use of alizarin in the process but today they are famous as Bagh
printers due to geographical uniqueness associated with the craft. In 2009 it
got geographical indication from the government of India.
Bagru print is also a famous hand block printing
technique done in Bagru village of Rajasthan situated on Jaipur-Ajmer highway
30 kilometers away from Jaipur. Here also alizarin printing is done which got
Geographical Indication for its local specialty. Printing is done in off white background.
In Bagru alizarin gives a beautiful orangish red shade. It is one of the
oldest hand block printing center in Rajasthan where still traditional hand
block printing techniques mainly Dabu printing is practiced along with alizarin
hand block print. "Chhippa Community" of Bagru associate themselves
with the tradition and lineage of "Sant Namdev" tailor by profession
and one of the famous saint of "Bhakti tradition" in India lived
during 13th century.
Bagru print on Mulberry silk
Ummedpura-Tarapur village of Madhya
Pradesh syahi begar hand block printing is also practiced. They are still using
“Kath” (Vegetable black color) using jiggery powder and iron rust instead of
“kashish” (Readymade vegetable black color) now commonly used to prepare black
color. It is a very small village situated on the banks of “Ghambhiri” river
having population of 2500 to 3000.
Tarapur is 270 kilometers away from Indore the industrial capital of Madhya
Pradesh. For red color first alum as mordant is printed using tamarind seed
powder paste and then dyed with alizarin. Now a day synthetic alizarin is used
unlike 50 years ago roots of morinda tinctoria were used. Here alizarin gives
beautiful brick red red shade.
Syahi Begar print mal cotton from Tarapur
“Chippa” community is practicing the craft of hand block printing in Tarapur
since 400 years, who claims to belong to the lineage of Sant Namdev, a famous
saint of “Bhakti tradition” in India. 10-15 years back some 30-40 families of
“Chippa community” were involved in this craft restricted to the 3-4 families
today. It’s all due to tough competition from the chemical screen printing and
imitating of designs by machine printers selling it at cheaper prices than hand
block printing. But they are still following the traditional methods in
preparing the fabrics using semi-vegetable colors.
Other centers of Syahi Begar Printing
Apart from Bagh, Bagru and Tarapur the tradition of syahi begar printing is practiced in other centers of India too as an alternative block printing techniques. "Bela Printing" of Gujarat is one such printing technique practiced by 1 or 2 craftsman today. In Rajasthan apart from Bagru other block printing centers like Akola, Balotra, Kaladera, Pipad and other centers it is practiced in some way.
Also tradtion of Pedana and Machilipatnam goes beyond the limit of syahi begar block printing.
Limitations of Syahi Begar Printing
Limitations of the traditional syahi begar printing is that only two colors red and black is possible in printing. For other color shades salt based synthetic dyes are used to get the background colors as per the demand of the customer.
Sometimes anar ka chilka (Pomegranate peel) is used to get the yellow color shade in the background.
To purchase sarees or fabrics you can explore ecofab
